Facing My Nemesis - the Motorcycle

The main method of transport in Indonesia is “sepeda motor” (motorcycle) which includes three categories of vehicle, scooters, as we would call them in Canada, full-fledged motorcycles, usually in the 1000 – 1400 CC range of power, and something in the middle, which is a semi-automatic motorcycle with manually-changed gears, but no clutch. When I first accepted this placement in Indonesia, the Disability Program Manager helpfully pointed out that it would be ‘advantageous’ if I were able to ride a motorcycle as it makes getting around easier. It sort of made sense to me at the time as I didn’t want to have my freedom limited by transport issues, so off I went to Florida (the only place in North America, and possibly the world, I could obtain training in January without a US Social Security Number) for three days of intensive motorcycle training.

To call this training session a disaster would be an understatement. I was taking the class with about 12 other people, most of whom were Cuban-Americans who were there only because they were suddenly legally required to be there under new Florida law, but had driven motorcycles for years. I do not drive a manual-transmission car, which gave me the added challenge of learning to control a powerful machine, while learning the coordination of hands, feet, clutch vs. throttle, etc. I also managed to wipe out, not once, but twice, during the training. Luckily, I was uninjured, unless you count pride. The instructor informed me, minutes before my final driving test, that if I fell a third time, it would mean an automatic fail. I went into the test extremely nervous, but did manage to pass it. To their credit, the rest of the class applauded enthusiastically when my name was called and I picked up my new Florida motorcycle license endorsement.

When I arrived in Indonesia a week later, the full impact of the Program Manager’s advice became apparent. There are probably about 100 motorcycles here for every car, and they drive with a ‘style’ that I can only call CHAOS. In Indonesia you drive on the left, and this includes motorcycles – unless you are either turning onto a road, turning off of a road, have live chickens hanging by their feet from a bamboo pole perched precariously on your shoulders, have more than 3 passengers, or just don’t feel like driving on the left side of the road – at least I think those are the rules.

So it was with equal parts joy and trepidation that I learned we would receive additional motorcycle training here in Bali. I learned that the motorcycle I would be using in placement was of the semi-automatic variety (which, incidentally, is known locally as a sepeda perempuan, or ‘girl bike’). No more worries about clutch, and less power than the machine on which I learned in Florida – I was ready for my training!

I am proud to say that I did not fall, and I managed to make a 2-hour trip to Ubud (a beautiful area of Bali with rice fields, arts & handicrafts, lush rain forest) with confidence, and yes, even using some of the Indonesian ‘rules’ of the road.

While in Ubud, we visited one of VSO’s partners, Senang Hati (which means “Happy Hearts”) for lunch and a tour. This is a facility for people with disabilities that 5 years ago did not exist and today counts over 200 participants. It offers physiotherapy, rehabilitation, English classes, drama classes, aquatherapy, computer classes and more to people with disabilities living throughout Bali. About 35 of its participants live onsite as travel to and from the facility over great distances is difficult. One of the innovations of this facility is to offer computer classes to local able-bodied children – the goal of which is to help integrate the disabled children into the community by helping them make friends with the local children. It is a beautiful place, nestled between a patch of rain forest and rice fields, and the local community is extremely proud that Senang Hati finds its home there.

Back home we went, happy that we got to experience this place. The traffic was much busier on the way home, but we were prepared, we persevered, and we made it. The only injury sustained by our hearty crew was too much sun, and as I am Canadian and it’s early March, that is something I am not going to complain about.